The Italian food elements, chocolate, ice-cream/helados and great value on the ‘blue dollar’ rate (changing euros or US dollars at double the rate than with the banks); with a Spanish twist made our April 2022 trip to Buenos Aires very affordable – and memorable. It was my first trip to South America. Argentina and Buenos Aires and I am sure it won’t be my last. We enjoyed amazing wines at great prices and stayed in four different parts of the city, taking in tastes, monuments, sights and sounds.
From the bustling city centre, to the new developments around Puerto Madero and the trendy neighbourhoods of Recoleta and Palermo; the city offers something for everyone. The La Boca area also pays homage to Argentina’s colourful football past including ‘The Golden Boy’ of football, Maradona. Not to be confused with Madonna who portrayed the presidential first lady Eva Perón in the movie musical, Evita of 1996 – though you can see caricatures of both Maradona and Madonna in the streets of La Boca thanks to their BA connections!
While we were there, we had a historical look at the politics, cathedrals, explored the modern and ate and drank… and ate and drank some more. We found some great quality and value bars and restaurants, amazing coffee and dulce de leche. And pastries.
Too much to write about and a lot to explore yourself. From modern wine bars with huge varieties, serious chocolate treats, even to a sushi-serving Thacks Awards-winning restaurant that we frequented more than once, and the first Thacks Awards-winning nightlife establishment, Club69, that we also highly recommend.
The Japanese Gardens in Buenos Aires is one of the largest of its kind outside of Japan and was a peaceful way to spend a few hours without drinking wine! Completed in 1967 the gardens are concentrated around a central lake with carp and graced by a Japanese Peace Bell with numerous granite sculptures scattered all over.
La Recoleta Cemetery located in the Recoleta neighbourhood is probably best known for the grave of Eva Perón but also holds remains of ex-presidents of Argentina, Nobel Prize winners, and the founder of the Argentine Navy. It has been noted as one of the world’s ‘best’ cemeteries, and CNN has listed it among the ‘10 most beautiful cemeteries in the world’.
An interesting tomb is the story of Liliana Crociati who was born in 1944 and died aged 26 (in 1970) on her honeymoon in Innsbruck in Austria when her hotel was struck by an avalanche. Her tomb, designed by her mother in Neo-Gothic style, contrasts other tombs in the cemetery and features a life-size green bronze statue of Liliana in her wedding dress. A later addition to the tomb was a bronze statue of her dog, Sabu, after he died, with her hand resting on the dog’s head. Locals believe that if you rub Sabu’s nose it brings good luck so his snout is bronze-coloured compared to the rest of the green statues.
Another impressive Recoleta sight is arguably the world’s most beautiful bookstore – Ateneo Grand Splendid – which opened as a luxurious theatre in 1919 when Buenos Aires was booming as an entry port and commerce hub for South America. Today you can sip a coffee and enjoy chocolate submarinos where the theatre stage used to be; and view the stunning frescoes on the magnificent ceiling.
We loved the sights and sounds of Buenos Aires and it’s a surprising MUST DO in any travel bucket list. The staff in all bars and restaurants we frequented were lovely too.
Although not everyone can win Thacks Awards, these were some favourite memories from our time in Buonos Aires –
Best Value Location Meal:
Puerto Cristal on the water’s edge in Puerto Madero served up a $1590 three-course set menu. Equivalent to 7 euros it was great value and the luxurious bathrooms were appreciated.
Although not the tastiest meal we had in BA by far, the atmosphere and ambiance were great.
Best Wine Bars:
Aldo’s ‘Restoran and Vinoteca’ was great for their massive wine list and we had some lovely snacks there too. We were lucky to be there for a live music event and then even attended a wine tasting event that they hosted which was good! A wine bar in Mendoza however snatched a Thacks Award from Aldo’s.
Pro.Vin.Cia is another impressive small but intimate and classy gem which feels upmarket but is reasonably-priced and serves amazing wines; complemented with cheese and fresh bread snacks. Go early to get a table or make a reservation.
Best Night Life: AWARD WINNER
Club69 is a welcoming venue for anyone of any age. We were so surprised at the vibrant and exciting nightlife scene (yet it’s quite underground in the sense that you need to research it as we had two disappointments of arriving at a venue at the wrong date and venue as even addresses change!), that we awarded Club69 with a 2022 Thacks Award. Right near our accommodation in Palermo (our accommodation supplied earplugs!) the regular Niceto themed events provided a ‘second youth’ and we partied the night away to DJ’s and music with live performances which are a feast for the senses. Have a look at their Instagram page on past events to get an exciting feel for what you’d be in for, but in addition to great sound and lighting; the themes, professional dishy dancers and streamers/balloons and effects all add to a party night you’ll never forget. You can skip the queues and buy pre-tickets for $1500 (just six euros) and promo drinks (2 gin and tonics cost just $1k – or two euros fifty each!) which are a steal. The happy vibe and dancers are great – we even saw a Madonna and Justin Timberlake lookalike at the Asian-themed evening.
Best Coffee and Fresh Treats:
Ispica Caffe E Pasticceria in Palerma has excellent coffee and the best freshest decadent treats in Buenos Aires. This coffee shop quickly became our favourite stop in the mornings!
Kissaten Tostador served great quality coffee and tasty treats too; and they supply beans to their sister coffee shop nearby which was also good. The cool thing about this coffee bar is that it’s hidden beyond a wine bar and staircase past the toilets; so relies on word of mouth and reviews for repeat customers. We went there more than once!
Best Sushi/food: AWARD WINNER
Namida, also in the foodie-fantasy-world-neighbourhood of Palermo, impressed us with consistent and delicious fresh sushi; but also great meaty springrolls, crispy prawns and gyozas. Although famed for their steakhouses, Namida served up the best meals in Buenos Aires we had during our trip! Walk-ins welcome, but make a reservation to avoid disappointment.
Best Empanada: Although the steaks are good, Parrilla Pena served up the crispiest tastiest empanada’s of our trip. You get a complementary empanada but we were greedy and ordered more… Go hungry.
Best Quirky Cocktail Bar:
Floreria Atlantico is a beautiful florist shop with a hidden cocktail bar downstairs (the entrance looks like you’re going into a walk-in freezer from the florist shop) then you go downstairs and can enjoy dinner and cocktails downstairs. Reservations suggested.
Buenos Aires – a treat for all senses written by John T – one of the international Thacks Awards panelists, living in Spain. When not traveling and wine-tasting, John is an iGaming specialist reporting into director level in the sports betting industry with a degree in Information Technology.
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